He’s a man who was raised on fine fashion, as well as being responsible for bringing countless designers into the public domain. Here, Simon Burstein talks about the stratospheric highs and unavoidable lows of luxury fashion retail. www.theplacelondon.co.uk
You come from retail royalty. What would you say is your earliest memory of the shop floor?
“I suppose it would be when I got a Saturday job at Browns under the ownership of Sir William Pigot-Brown. My family bought the business two years later, and while this was a lifetime ago, I still remember those early days and always try to lead by example. I don’t need to take boxes to the stockroom, but I do because it helps everyone.”
Your mother, Joan, was instrumental in bringing names like Calvin Klein to London. What are the style rules she taught you?
“I worked with my mother as an assistant from the age of 18 and learnt so much. ‘When in doubt, cut it out’ was her motto, and this always made editing collections easier.”
Selling Browns must have been emotional. What would you say prompted the move?
“I returned to London in 2008 having spent 20 years living and working in Paris for Sonia Rykiel — and after the collapse of Lehman Brothers, the retail business was tough. The pub next door was demolished and replaced by Bosideng, and tunnelling for the Elizabeth Line was going on underneath our store. It was a crazy time with so much happening.”
How did you survive?
“It was thanks to a strong retail and online presence. However, what was becoming apparent was that we were trailing behind our competitors like Matches and Net-a-Porter in terms of online business. So, when José Neves of Farfetch approached us, it seemed to be the right move for everyone for him to acquire Browns, as clearly we lacked the experience and funding to match our competitors.”
Your business, The Place London, now resides on Brown’s original spot on South Molton Street. What’s your vision for the brand?
“When I opened The Place London in 2015 in Connaught Village, I wanted to continue to find talent and give designers a showcase to express themselves. I made a conscious choice not to go after any big brand but to offer ‘affordable luxury’ with a combination of craftmanship and technology, often with a timeless style to customers.”
How are you finding it?
“Customers are often pleasantly surprised to discover brands that they have never heard of. Mii and Cord are just a couple of examples of great designers offering original collections and great quality at affordable prices.”
You also have a branch in Paris. When there are there any places you always like to visit?
“Paris is my second home, and I fell in love with the shop located in the heart of St Germain, which is on a beautiful street called Rue de L’Odeon, which leads up to the Jardin du Luxembourg. My three daughters live in St Germain, so I usually hang out in the neighbourhood. There are so many good restaurants to choose from, along with galleries and small museums, which I love.”
You continue to champion independent and emerging designers as your mother did. How do you select designers for The Place?
“I do an awful lot of research, mostly at trade fairs where I can spot designers that have a strong identity that matches the ethos of The Place London.”
You also acquired Leathersmith of London in 2015, which recently received the Royal Warrant. Tell us about the brand.
“Leathersmith of London encompasses everything I champion. Heritage, craftmanship, technology, quality and good value. Instead of retiring after selling Browns, I did quite the opposite. I was a minority shareholder in Nealedataday Ltd., a family-run business producing Leathersmith and other brands in Canvey Island. Unfortunately, the company ran into financial difficulties, and it coincided at the time with the sale of Browns, so I was able to save it. Today we have a beautiful modern bindery that the Duchess of Edinburgh opened two years ago. The Royal Warrant was granted to Charfleet bookbindery for the calendars we supply to Buckingham Palace.”
You work hard — which must afford a few luxuries. What is your biggest indulgence today?
“My real luxury is to be able to do what I am doing, travelling a lot to interesting places. I realise that I will never make more money with my current businesses than I did with the sale of Browns, so it is a labour of love. I am indebted to my parents and sister for all the hard work they did over the past 40 years.”
When you do get a moment to unwind, what is your favourite way to spend the day?
“I love to go to the markets: Portobello and Goldborne road in London, or Vanves in Paris on a Saturday morning. I like to do some food shopping, buy the weekend newspapers and have a late breakfast nearby. I am also a keen tennis player and a member of the Campden Hill Lawn Tennis Club, so I often play there on a Saturday afternoon. But if I’m being honest, relaxing at home with my partner after a busy week and putting my feet up is my absolute favourite way to unwind.”
